in-lite outdoor LED lighting. The deck after dark.

Add up the wattage of every fixture you're installing (each spec sheet prints the wattage). Multiply that total by 1.2 for headroom. Pick the next-size-up transformer. Example: 8 × Hyve 60 deck dots (1.5W each) + 6 × Liv path lights (3W each) + 2 × Big Scope wall lights (5W each) = 12 + 18 + 10 = 40W. 40W × 1.2 = 48W → use the standard transformer. If you think you'll expand later, jump up to the SMART HUB-150 (150W) — the upcharge is small and you get 100W+ of expansion headroom. Or bring your fixture list to either store and we'll size it for you in five minutes.

Yes — that's the whole point of 12V plug-and-play. As long as the transformer has wattage headroom, you can branch off any cable run with a Splitter or CC-2 connection and tie in new fixtures. No wire nuts, no electrician, no permits. The only constraint is total cable run (40m / ~130 ft from transformer to furthest fixture) and transformer wattage capacity. We always recommend sizing the transformer one tier above what you need today.

40 meters (approximately 130 feet) total, transformer to furthest fixture. The cables are pre-engineered for that run length, so you don't have to do voltage-drop math. If your project is bigger than 130 ft of run, you have two options: (1) add a second transformer at the far end of the property, (2) run two parallel cables off a Splitter from the same transformer. Either approach works — bring the layout to either yard and we'll spec it.

Both work. Daisy-chain (one cable feeding fixture A → fixture B → fixture C in series) is the simplest and uses the least cable. Home-run (each fixture on its own cable back to the Splitter) is more wire but easier to troubleshoot if something fails. For most residential decks, we recommend a hybrid: daisy-chain along the deck face, branch off with a Splitter at the post-cap or wall-light section. The Easy-Lock connector lets you change your mind mid-install — pull a cable apart and re-route without tools.

5-year manufacturer warranty against LED + driver failure on every in-lite fixture and transformer. Cables and Easy-Lock connectors are warranted for lifetime against splice failure (the seal). The warranty is honoured by in-lite directly through their North American distributor — TUDS helps customers file claims, but in-lite owns the process. Save your purchase receipt and the install date. in-lite warranty page.

Yes. The fixture bodies are anodized aluminum or 316 marine-grade stainless, the LED + driver are rated to -25°C continuous operation, and the cables are direct-burial-rated. We've sold in-lite systems across the Prairies since 2018 and have not paid a cold-failure warranty claim on a system we installed. The only winter-specific tip: the SMART HUB-150 transformer should be mounted indoors (basement, garage, deck-mounted enclosure) — not surface-mounted to a south-facing wall where the freeze-thaw cycle is hardest.

For most residential decks (under 15 fixtures, single transformer), in-lite is squarely a DIY job — no electrician, no permit, no voltage-drop math. The transformer plugs into a standard outdoor 120V GFCI outlet, the cables direct-bury under mulch or pavers, and the Easy-Lock connector means no wire nuts. For larger architectural plans (20+ fixtures, multiple transformers, app-controlled scenes), it's worth bringing in a contractor for the layout — we work with several Saskatoon and Regina installers and can refer you. Either way, start at either TUDS yard so we can size the transformer + cable plan with you.