How to Choose the Best Saw Blade for Deck Framing and Demolition: Pro Tips for Accurate, Clean Cuts

Choosing the right saw blade for deck framing or demolition is one of the top decisions that separates truly satisfying (and safe) builds from those projects that drive you to frustration. At The Ultimate Deck Shop, we’ve worked with thousands of DIYers and pros across Saskatchewan and Western Canada, and time and again, we’ve seen how knowing your blade can save time, reduce waste, and deliver far cleaner results. In this guide, we’ll break down exactly what to look for when selecting your saw blade—from kerf and tooth count to tooth geometry and coatings—plus offer our own recommendations and real-world pro tips for smoother, faster, and safer projects.

Understand the Job: Deck Framing vs. Demolition

First, let’s get clear on your end goal. Framing means making precise, straight cuts in joists, beams, stringers, and posts—usually with pressure-treated wood, sometimes with composite. You’ll want speed and a stable cut without excessive tearing.

Demolition? That’s a different beast—cutting through wood, hidden nails, screws, old fasteners, and the occasional knot or embedded debris. In demolition, blade toughness and durability matter more than a picture-perfect finish. Using the wrong blade (like a fine-tooth finish blade) can ruin a blade on the first nail it meets.

Saw and Blade Compatibility: Match Diameter and Arbor

This might sound basic, but you’d be amazed how easy it is to pick up the wrong size blade. Match the blade diameter to your saw (7 1/4", 10", or 12" most commonly for framing and demolition). The arbor hole must also match—forcing the wrong fit is unsafe and damages both blade and tool. Always check your saw and blade labels before you buy or install.

Kerf Thickness: Find the Balance

Kerf, or the width of the blade’s cut, affects material waste and how hard your saw has to work. Thin kerf blades (about 3/32") are ideal for most deck framing and demo work because they:

• Reduce how hard the saw motor needs to work, saving battery life and extending tool life
• Remove less wood, which can be important for expensive or limited materials
• Push through tough, pressure-treated wood more easily—handy for cordless saws or big cutting days

Tooth Count: The Secret to Speed and Finish

The number of teeth is where your blade selection gets strategic:

• 24 Teeth: The standard for fast, rough cuts in framing lumber and demolition. These blades rip through joists and beams quickly—even handling the odd fastener. A true workhorse for structural cuts.
• 40–44 Teeth: Ideal for cleaner crosscuts and finishing work. These blades shine when you’re cutting deck boards to length, composite materials, or want something splinter-free.

Do not use a finish blade for demolition work. Finishing blades are not built for nails; you’ll dull or wreck the blade after a few hits, and that means wasted time and money.

Tooth Geometry: Designed for the Task

For deck framing and demolition, most pros look for alternate top bevel (ATB) or flat top grind (FTG) teeth. Here’s why:

• ATB: The points alternate left and right for smooth rips and crosscuts—versatile across softwoods and most framing lumber.
• FTG: Each tooth is flat-topped, hitting wood at a 90° angle. These are ultra-tough for ripping through dense wood and contact with old nails.

If you’re working with composite decking for finish cuts, aim for a triple chip grind (TCG) or a finer ATB, which resists chip-out and delivers cleaner edges (see our internal resource on choosing the right saw blades and bit sets for more details).

Blade Materials and Coatings: Get More Miles From Every Blade

• Carbide-tipped blades: These handle pressure-treated lumber and even the odd nail far better than simple steel teeth. They stay sharp longer, which saves you time and money over a project.
• Anti-stick/non-stick coatings: Reduce resin buildup and help prevent the blade from binding or overheating, especially if you’re working in humid environments or with sticky woods.

Avoid plain steel blades unless you want to sharpen or replace them after every new build.

Our Top Saw Blade Picks for Deck Framing and Demolition

• ROK 7 1/4-inch x 24-tooth Framing Saw Blade
  Perfect for joists, beams, and fast framing. Optimized side chip clearance and durable build make it a deck builder’s staple.

  

• ROK 7 1/4-inch x 24-tooth Demolition Saw Blade
  Built tough for demolition, it slices through wood, nails, and mixed materials with less chance of binding.

  

• ROK 7 1/4-inch x 40-tooth Finishing Saw Blade
  When you’re trimming deck boards or want a crisp edge, this blade delivers an ultra-fine finish.

  

• ROK 12-inch x 44-tooth Thin Kerf General Purpose Saw Blade
  For larger miter saws and ultra-clean composite or hardwood cuts.

  

• ROK 10-inch x 24-tooth Thin Kerf Rip Saw Blade
  Perfect for quick, straight rips in framing or fence lumber before assembly.

  

Pro Tips for Smoother, Safer Cutting

• Let the saw do the work. If you push too hard, you’ll burn the blade and risk jagged cuts. Consistent, medium pressure is the sweet spot.
• Keep blades clean and sharp. Even coated blades collect dust and resin, especially from pressure-treated woods. Use a blade cleaner after big jobs.
• Switch blades as your materials change. If you swap from composite to cedar or hardwood, change your blade to get the best finish and the longest life from each blade.
• Change blades when they dull. Dull blades burn wood, tear out fibers, and strain your saw motor. If you need to push hard, it’s time for a swap.

Want more tips? Dive deeper in our blog on expert saw blade and bit selection for expert advice on matching blades to your next outdoor project.

Avoid These Common Mistakes

• Don’t use a blade that doesn’t match your saw’s diameter and arbor.
• Avoid using a high-tooth finish blade for demolition—it will dull with the first nail.
• Never force your cut through sticky or resin-rich boards without a coated blade.
• Don’t keep old, burned, or chipped blades in your kit—change them for every project or major material switch.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a single blade for framing and finishing?

Technically yes, but you’ll compromise on finish quality and rapidly dull your blade doing demolition or rough framing. Ideally, keep at least one framing/demolition blade and one finish blade on hand.

How many blades does a typical 400 sq ft deck require?

Plan for at least one fresh framing blade and one finisher. If your deck demolition includes lots of nails, bring an extra demolition blade.

Why does my saw stall or bind during cuts?

Most likely your blade is dull or mismatched to the material. Blades with too many teeth bog down in framing lumber, and dull blades overheat quickly.

Level Up Your Deck Framing and Demolition

The right saw blade delivers faster progress and better results. Our team at The Ultimate Deck Shop is always ready to help you pick the right blade, whether you stop by in Regina or Saskatoon, or you prefer to browse our tool rentals and accessories online.

If you want more guidance on getting perfect cuts for your deck, check out our detailed guide on matching saw blades and tools to every outdoor build. For those interested in learning best practices for finishing composite boards or making the most of your investment in blades, don’t miss our post covering which replacement blades maximize cutting performance.

Whatever your project, you can trust that we’ll help you escape to your backyard with the expert advice and quality you deserve. Ready to give your tools a proper upgrade? Explore our curated selection of blades, saws, and precision tools or connect with us in-store for hands-on advice!